A lot of types of golf tees have been designed and patented, even though not all have been commercialized. Ordinary tees are made from wood or plastic. A recent development are biodegradable tees, which biodegrade in about a year in an active, organic environment, and thus help protect the golf course ecosystem. They also last about twice (or more) the number of drives per tee as compared to wooden tees, thus reducing tee box litter. The concept is similar to biodegradable golf balls that biodegrade in water.
Recent developments in golf tees have been basically oriented towards one of two scopes: either offering a consistent ball height on the tee or offering less resistance with the aim to provide a longer and faster ball flight with less backspin.
The first type of tees are designed in such a way that they can not be inserted below a certain predetermined point under the top for more consistent ball height on tee shots.
Some new golf tees have a slight adjustment with the holster for the ball, better known as zero friction, stinger tees or more trajectory tees. Zero friction tees generally have a tri-holster, which some people find hard to balance the ball on. Due to a reduced friction top zero friction tees provide significantly less resistance than a traditional golf tee. These tees are also said to provide almost 5 yards over any other “performance” golf tee thanks to the reduced spin rate. In stinger tees the thinner head and shaft, and shallower cup create less resistance and less drag than the bulkier, regular tee.
Aero Spark tees have a flexible neck which makes the tee difficult to break. The also last longer than conventional tees (more than 3 rounds on average).
Golf balls usually consist of a solid rubber or resin core with a surlyn, polyurethane or balata cover. A surlyn cover gives a slightly harder feel, while a polyurethane cover gives a softer feel and greater control. The core can also consist of a liquid contained within a membrane. Additional layers can be added under the cover, such as a mantle layer and inner cover for increased performance and control.
2. Why do golf balls have dimples on their surface ?
Dimples are believed to add about 115% to the distance (as compared to nondimpled balls) by reducing the amount of drag on the ball and accentuating the effects of lift. They were first used in 1908.
Dimples on a regulation golf ball differ greatly from one golf ball to another, depending on their depth, alignment and distribution. Each dimple pattern has a different impact on the ball performances and manufacturers are constantly seeking to improve them. In order to include more dimple coverage, some patterns require the use of dimples of different sizes arranged in a structured, symmetric way on the same ball.
The number of dimples and nodes (dimple sizes) is not arbitrary. The optimum dimple number has been defined at about 350 to 450 per ball, but the number of dimples can vary from 252 to 500 dimples per ball. Some of the most popular number of dimples, according to Tibor Tarnai, an engineer at the Technical University of Budapest, are 332, 360, 384, 392, 416, 420, 432 and 480, all of which are found in commercial balls. There is also a tendensy to produce dimple patterns with the highest order of symmetry, leading from the Octahedron pattern, which divides the golf ball’s surface in eight identical triangles to the Icosahedron pattern, created by Titleist in 1973, dividing the ball’s surface into 20 identical triangles.
3. What do the terms multilayered golf balls, distance golf balls, low-spin golf balls and performance golf balls mean ?
Most golf balls come in a two-, three-, or four-layer design, known as a two-piece, three-piece, or four-piece ball respectively (the latter two being known also as multi-layered golf balls). Three-piece balls typically have a softer polyurethane or Surlyn cover and a mantle layer of rubber windings around a rubber core. Four-piece balls additionally have an inner cover made of a blend of ionomers and an outer cover made of Elastomer or Balata. One piece balls made of solid Surlyn are rarely used to play golf, but are used on practice grounds and driving ranges.
Manufacturers generally use four different denominations to characterize golf balls: distance golf balls, low-spin golf balls, soft feel golf balls and performance golf balls. Distance balls are usually two-piece balls with a large core designed for maximum velocity surrounded by a tin, cut-proof Surlyn cover. However, some companies are now making 3-piece distance balls that have a softer Surlyn cover and a harder Surlyn mantle layer. These new generation golf balls give the same distance, but with a softer feel, although they are not comparable to 3-piece performance balls. Performance balls exist in two-piece or three-piece versions.
To combine spin with distance a golf ball typically has to be multi-layered (three of four-piece balls), so low-spin golf balls typically are made of only two layers: a Surlyn cover and a core made of rubber combined with filler to obtain the proper weight. It is the Surlyn cover that makes a 2-piece ball feel hard and spin less, though more recent blends of the material give a softer feel and spin a little more. The cover of a 2-piece ball is usually also ticker which makes the golf ball more durable.
Thanks to the great variety in design and materials used, golfers of any level and different abilities can find a golf ball that suits their specific needs.
4. What type of golf ball (2-piece, 3-piece or 4-piece) should I choose for my game ?
Two-piece balls maximize distance and minimize spin. They are good for novice golfers and high handicappers with slow swing speeds or intermediate golfers just looking for more distance and less side spin. Also known as Distance balls or Low-spin balls.
Three-piece balls create low spin off a driver to provide distance, yet provide more spin off iron shots. Ideal for intermediate golfers golfers looking for a softer feel, who have no problem with distance and can make an efficient use of backspin.
Three-piece performance balls sacrifice a little distance off the tee but offer more control around the green. Good for more experienced players. (see column right)
Two-piece performance balls have enlarged cores (as compared to traditional two-piece balls) made of different layers of a mix of materials going from stiffer at the center to more elastic in the outer layers of the cor. These balls offer great length off the tee together with nearly the same characteristics of control of 3-piece performance balls. (see column right)
Four-piece balls are generally recommended for expert players with faster swings, who never slice or hook and have a perfect control of backspin. Four-piece balls produce high spin off wedges and short irons for maximum stopping power, while offering a soft feel and exceptional control around the green. (see column right)
Whichever type you choose, stick to your choice for a while to get used to the new golf balls and develop some consistency in your play.
5. What is meant by compression rate of a golf ball ?
Traditionally 3-piece balls have a spherical solid rubber or fluid-filled center around which many yards of a stretched elastic thread are wound forming a wound core. The tightness of these thread windings determined the golf ball’s compression rate. Due to recent technological advancement, however, the compression rate is now merely an expression of feel and of how much the golf ball is deflected when hit, or how the contact between clubhead and ball is prolonged, as a consequence.
The compression rating of golf balls usually ranges from 70-110, but the complete scale goes from 0 to 200, with 0 standing for a ball which can be deformed by 0.2 inches or more, and 200 standing for a ball that does not deform at all. The lower the compression, the softer the feel. Contrary to popular belief high compression balls do not necessarily fly farther, as other components such as clubhead speed, swing speed, the club’s loft angle and dimple pattern are as important in determining distance.
Low compression balls
Low compression golf balls typically have a compression rate of 70-80 and are easily compressed (i.e. deformed) when they are hit by the clubhead. They are usually used by novice players and players with a slower swing or slower club head, although some tour players prefer these golf balls because of the soft feel.
Medium compression balls
Most advanced golfers will prefer playing with a golf balls having a medium compression rate of 90. These medium compression balls provide both softness and ease of control.
High compression balls
Players with high club head speeds usually choose high compression golf balls with 100-110 compression rating, which are less likely to deform upon impact.
6. Are there any regulations regarding the size and weight of a golf ball ?
Yes, an appendix to the “Rules of Golf” defines that a golf ball must not weigh less than 45.93 grams (1.620 oz), that its diameter must not be less than 42.67 mm (1.580 in), and that its shape may not differ significantly from a symmetric sphere. Like golf clubs, golf balls are subject to testing and approval by the Royal and Ancient Golf Club of St Andrews and the United States Golf Association, and those that do not conform with the regulations may not be used in competitions (Rule 5-1).
Best golf ball on the market for intermediate players (15+ handicappers), offering perfect combination of distance off the tee with less slice/hook. For lower handicappers, see the Z-star below.
One of the only optic yellow golf balls at premium level (equivalent of the Titleist Pro V1, which only exists in white, though). This ultimate multi-layered golf ball offers superb feel and distance control thanks to its super soft, ultra thin Urethane cover.
If you make an error (whatever it is), try to stay calm. And remember that, during a golf round, everyone will have his/her turn for getting into trouble. However, if you don’t stay calm, you will start hitting the ball in an uncontrolled way that will make the situation even worse. As a result, you will get even more nervous and……….game over.
2) Looking for distance rather than accuracy
When you prepare to tee off and you are facing a long distance hole, you may consider taking your stronger wood and hit as hard as you can. Well, unless you are a pro, I bet that your ball will slice out of the fairway with as a consequence that the ball will be impossible to recover or that you will need a supershot to get back in the game area….. Always favor accuracy over distance (if you can’t ensure both) to get a solid, straight fly.
3) Worrying about future shots
A very common mistake is to start worrying about your future 2-3 shots while forgetting to concentrate on the shot you are about to hit. Even worse is when you start viewing all potential strokes you may (or may not) do mentally, calculating and predicting your result at the same time……Well, let me assure you that, in 99% of the cases, you will fail to hit your immediate shot either because you haven’t really focused on it or because you will have become so tense having acknowledged the score. Remember, consider only one shot at a time.
4) Forget to keep the ball in play
This seems trivial but in reality it is the most common mistake that amateurs make! Too often, when facing a recovery shot or simply teeing off, players go for the ideal shot forgetting their own limits (not all of us have the flexibility of Tiger Woods or the touch of Phil Mickelson….) resulting in a very poor shot. Instead, when reflecting about your next shot, always go for the one that will give you the highest chance to keep the ball in play, even if it is not the shortest way to the flag. Keeping this in mind, you may shoot less birdies but you will be consistently within the par-bogey score. And remember, to win a match you need consistency not just a couple of magnificent shots…..
5) Targeting the flag
Another common mistake is to misread the green approach. Frequently, it is much better not to shoot in the direction of the flag (there may be obstacles all around) but shooting towards an area of the green that is safer also if that would make your shot look less perfect. Remember, a lot of greens are purposely designed in such a way that shooting directly towards the flag will drive you into trouble……….don’t fall into that trap !
While improving your game is all about technique, improving your score is about strategy. Lack of technique can be (at least partly) compensated by a good strategy, the proper mental attitude and a good understanding of the dynamics behind the golf shot.
On this page we will discuss five key points to help you improve your strategy and lower your score.
1) First, get the right attitude
To improve your score, you have to learn how to play the game, not how to swing or how to hit the ball farther. “Too many people tend to forget that the real object of the game, once the round is under way, is not to make pretty swings or hit pretty shots, but to find the wisest, most efficient way to get the ball into the hole in the fewest strokes possible……………….
And everything starts from having the right attitude: play for what you know you can instead of what you hope you can do…..Play comfortable. I think this is the best advice I can give anyone about actually playing the game. It’s the road to consistency. It’s so simple but it makes a huge difference !” (Raymond Floyd – excerpt from the book: the elements of scoring).
2) Putting, Putting, Putting. Did I say putting?
If you want to be a scorer, you have to be a good putter. Whether you are a beginning or a seasoned player, you will have noticed (or you will soon do…) that putting has more effect on your score than any other area of the game.
Additionally putting is the final “call”. While you can always try to recover with your next shot if you miss a swing or an approach shot, if you miss a putt, there is no recovery rather than adding one more stroke to your scorecard. This is why putting has an immediate effect on your scoring and on your mental game.
Good putters gain confidence and go to the next tee shot full of positive energy, while bad putters go depressed or angry, which will in turn affect their swing, too. Hence, like we said at the beginning, if you want to be a scorer, you have to be a good putter! To learn how to improve your putting game, see our section dedicated to putting.
3) Study the course upfront
The ability to play the right shot at the right time and plot his way round the course is what made Jack Nicklaus the most successful golfer ever. Many other players had better swings and a more stylish short game, but nobody could beat Jack’s strategic approach to the cours. So, performing a good course management analysis upfront is a key to lower the score.
How should you do this ?
Follow these key principles
3.1) check the yardage/distance chart to plot your shot strategy till the green.
3.2) always play away from trouble (it seems obvious, yet it isn’t if you don’t plan it carefully).
3.3) choose the set of golf clubs according to the course design.
3.4) always play to leave yourself an uphill putt.
See also: Course management.
Lastly, we suggest you to read the following book where Butch Harmon performs detailed, hands-on, explanation on course management and how to put it in practice. “I now want take the improvement process literally to the grass-roots level. In the course of this book, I take three virtual players and I teach them how to play strategically smart golf that’s right for their games…” (Butch Harmon – excerpt from the book: Playing Lessons
4) Patience and Perseverance
When played at a very high standard, golf is considered to be one of the hardest games. Surely, it is, but the key to keep improving and scoring better is simple:
“Golf requires patience and perseverance. There are no shortcuts……….When Butch Harmon and I overhauled my swing during the 1998 season, Butch would have me repeat one movement for 30 minutes. I would get so tired it felt like my arms were going to fall off. But I kept it until the move became ingrained in my muscle memory” (Tiger Woods – excerpt from the book: How I play golf).
5) Devote more than 50% of your practice to the short game
The more you practice, the better you will understand how slope, lie, ground and other external factors (wind and rain) affect the ball fly.
“When most amateur golfers go to the driving range to practice, they take with them a driver and a selection of irons…….Surprisingly, no thought whatsoever is given to pitch shots, chip shots and bunker play. And yet it is the short game, the shots played from around the green, which can, potentially have the most profound effect on their score and, consequently, their handicap” (Tony Dear – excerpt from the book: Good Golf – made easy).
Golf is played with golf clubs of various types. There are four major categories of clubs, known as woods, hybrids, irons, and putters. Wedges resemble irons and may also be counted among these. A golfer is allowed to carry up to fourteen clubs during a round.
2. Types of Golf Clubs
Woods can be played without a tee off the ground far more easily than the driver and are used for long approach shots.
They have large heads that are somewhat spherical in shape with a slightly bulging clubface and a flattened bottom that slides over the ground without digging in during the stroke. Originally the “wood” heads were made of wood but modern club heads are usually made of hollow steel or titanium, sometimes filled with foam. The shaft enters the wood off-center, in such a way that the face of the wood is roughly at a right angle to one side of the shaft. Woods are used for the longest shots, ranging from 200 to 300 yards (180-275 m). The typical loft for wood faces ranges from 6 to 26 degrees (a 3-wood has about 15 degrees of loft, a 5-wood 20-21 degrees). The 1 wood is usually referred to as a driver. Many club manufacturers are also producing 7-woods, 9-woods and even 11-woods which are excellent out of rough.
Irons are used for shorter shots than woods, especially including shots approaching the greens. Irons typically range from 36 to 40 inches (90-100 cm) in length. Iron heads are typically solid with a flat clubface. The typical lofts for irons range from 16 to 60 degrees. “Long” and intermediate irons (i.e. those with a lower loft) are usually played from fairway or other easy ground. “Short” irons (with a higher loft) are played from difficult ground and especially for approach shots to the green. A full set of irons traditionally comprises a 3-iron, 4-iron, 5-iron, 6-iron, 7-iron, 8-iron, and 9-iron. 1-irons and 2-irons are usually sold separately as few handicap golfers use them, because the little loft they have makes it difficult to get the ball airborne.
Wedges are irons with a loft of more than approximately 50 degrees. Pitching wedges are rather similar to other irons. Sand wedges have specially designed undersides that make them suitable for shots from bunkers or from the rough. Lob Wedges have a very high loft and are used for approach shots or from sand. A Pitching wedge typically has a loft of 45 to 48 degrees, a Sand wedge a loft of 54 to 58 degrees and a Lob wedge a loft of 58 to 62 degrees.
Some companies also offer Approach (or gap) wedges (AW) and High (or super) Lob Wedges (64 degrees or more). An approach wedge fills the gap between the pitching and sand wedge. Gap wedges typically range from 50 to 54 degrees.
Putters come in a variety of head shapes and have a very low loft and often a short shaft. They are used to play the ball on the green, but may occasionally be useful for playing from bunkers or for some approach shots.
Hybrids: are a cross between a fairway wood and a long iron, combining the best characteristics of each and mainly designed for distance control and accuracy. A hybrid club has a larger head and more mass than an iron, but with a head still much more compact than that of a typical wood. They tend to have shorter shafts than woods for the same loft, making them easier to control and more accurate (like an iron). The flat face and higher launch angle produces more spin in the ball allowing it to stop faster and with more accuracy. They also have no face bulge or roundness like fairway woods which keeps the shots simple. The bottoms often have runners or rails that help the club interact positively with the turf whether it is long rough, short fairway or sand. All other things being equal, with a hybrid club one should be able to get the ball higher and farther than with an iron with the same loft, while reducing the effects of mishits. For beginners, a hybrid set, where the long irons (3- and 4-irons) are replaced with utility clubs designed, may be a perfect choice.
1. The Reverse Overlap
The Reverse Overlap is the most common of putting grips. Apply your left hand to the putter grip and then, just beneath, rest your right hand around the putter grip. Link both your hands by lifting the index finger of your left hand and wrapping it over the fingers of your right hand.
2. The Vardon grip
The Overlapping grip, also known as Vardon Overlap, is the most common grip among professional players. It takes its name from Harry Vardon who popularized this grip around the turn of the 20th Century. The little finger of the non-dominant hand (the one placed lower on the club, i.e. the right hand for a right-handed player) is placed between the index and middle finger of the lead hand (the dominant hand, the hand placed above). The lead (top) hand thumb fits along the lifeline of the trailing (bottom) hand.
3. The Left-hand-low grip
The Left-hand-low-grip (also known as Cross-handed, Crossover or Cack-handed) is basically the reverse of the traditional golf putting grip. This grip suggests placing your left hand (for right-handers) below the right hand. Both hands are linked by wrapping the index finger of the right hand across the fingers of the left hand.
The little finger of the non-dominant (lower) hand is intertwined with the index finger of the lead (higher) hand. The lead hand thumb fits in the lifeline of the trailing hand.
5. The Claw grip
The Claw Grip (also known as Gator grip) is one of the most unusual golf putting grips where the fingers of the bottom hand are on top of the grip rather than on the bottom (similar to a violin grip), and the hand is hooked in place by wrapping the right thumb around and underneath the grip. The form described by the thumb and the rest of the fingers reminds of a lobster’s pincer or claw, hence the name. The left hand is placed on the putter grip in the traditional way. This style of putting grip forces the left hand to take the lead, eliminating the feeling of the wrists breaking down in the stroke. A slight variation of the claw grip is the Phillip Price’s grip where the fingers of the right rest diagonally across the side of the grip. Another variation is the Psycho grip or DiMarco grip in which the right hand holds the grip as if it were a handle, and the left hand grips the club conventionally.
6. The Two Fingers Down grip
The Two-fingers-down-grip is a simple variation of the traditional putting grip. Both hands are wrapped around the putter grip so that it rests in the palms again, but with both index fingers pointing straight down the side of the putter grip.
7. Split-handed grip
In the Split-handed grip hands are held split from each other. The player can alternate left-hand low and right-hand low. Ideally, the fingers of the upper hand should touch the forearm of the lower hand.
8. Bernhard Langer’s grip
To form the Langer grip place your left hand at the lowest point on the putting grip so that the inside of the left forearm is held tight against the shaft and point your index finger down the shaft. Now add your right hand at the top of the grip so that the fingers touch the back of your left arm and your thumb rests just above the wrist joint of the left arm. This grip takes the hands out of the stroke allowing you to rely entirely on the more controllable motion of the shoulders.
9. The box grip
The Box grip is one of the most recent of golf putting grip that only appeared in the last couple of years. Both hands are placed side by side, level with each other on the grip, so that the shoulders are level. The left hand should be placed at the top of the grip with the index finger running down the side of the grip and the right hand alongside it, about and inch lower, so that the hands form a kind of box.
10. Palms facing grip
The Palms facing grip is a neutral-hand position grip popularized by Vijay Singh. This grip suggests holding your putter in such a way that your palms are almost facing, with your right hand only slightly further down the club than your left. Your thumbs should be resting partially on the side of the club.
11. The Pencil grip
The Pencil grip is used with a long putter. The right hand holds the putter like a pencil and the left hand it put on top of the grip at the extreme hand of the club.
12. Ten Finger Putting Grip
The Ten finger putting grip or Baseball Putting Grip, is one of the three most common grips used at level (together with overlap and interlock), even though the least common of the three. It was more common in earlier days of the sport when the putting greens weren’t as smooth, quick and predictable as today. The ten finger grip would then maximize feel. For the same reason this grip is also recommended to players with smaller, weaker hands.
Most amateur golfers erroneously believe that the more they turn their back swing, the more they will be able to gain distance.
Actually, to gain distance you need to find the perfect posture that allows you to perform a fluid swing in order to ensure solid contact with the ball. On the contrary, by exaggerating the twist in the backswing, you will go out of the “ideal” swing plane, hence, you will need quite some compensation to strike the ball correctly, see picture 1 below:
Tip:try to identify the critical phase when you make the transition from back swing to downswing: in fact this is the point where you need to be most in control !
How to improve your game without picture-perfect form The Negotiable Golf Swing by Joseph Laurentino More info>>
For those of you who want to improve their swing without perfect-picture form, see: The negotiable swing.
2. Missing the Putting Line
The secret of good putting is to make sure that your mind can accurately visualize the line between the hole and the ball.
However, the most common mistake in doing this, is to start analyzing the ‘potential’ trajectory starting from the hole backwards to the ball stance: wrong…!
You have to do exactly the opposite, i.e. mentally visualize the ideal route of the ball from its position towards the hole (as, in the end, this is going to be the actual route of the ball….).
Tip: when putting, always accelerate at the moment you impact the ball. This will guarantee straight shots.
See also: putting grips to check which putting grip works best for you.
Our Book suggestion: like we already mentioned, the secret of good putting lies in the power of the mind. By reading this book, you will understand the rationale behind solid sustainable putting scoring: “Putting Out Of Your Mind” by Bob Rotella.
3. Swing Misconceptions
Many an amateur spends a lot of time and money (in golf lessons and sophisticated equipment) trying to improve their swing with the conviction that the backswing is not straight, the swing plane is not consistent, the finish is not high enough. All good reasons, for sure.
However, nearly 100% of the swing could be corrected just by improving only the first 3 steps of the swing sequence:
o Step 1 – the grip: the right positioning of the left and of right palms (see picture for reference) is fundamental for a correct swing. Ensure that your grip is smooth but solid (nor too tight, nor too “fluffy”). Let me tell you that the importance of the grip in the overall swing movement cannot be over-emphasized.
o Step 2 – the clubface is right on the ball: start positioning yourself based on the distance given by the right alignment of the clubface to the ball towards the objective.
Don’t do the opposite (deciding where to locate your feet and after aligning the iron………).
o Step 3 – get the right posture (stance): nor too curved, nor too straight. The trick is to use a back mirror to check your posture and compare it with an ideal one (any golf book has a picture of it !!!).
Tip:while you probably remember that you should avoid gripping the club too much in the palm with your bottom hand (the right hand il you play right-handed), most people fail to find the correct grip when it comes to the left hand (the top hand, for right-handed players).
Indeed, one of the most common errors among golfers is a weak top hand (the left hand, also called the lead hand) grip. Even though the left hand grip is slightly different from the right hand it shouldn’t be too much in the palm neither. Gripping the club too much in the palm reduces wrist action. This produces a shot that slices and lacks power. As your fingers are the most sensitive parts of your hands, placing the club more in the fingers rather than in the palm produces more feel and increases the amount of wrist hinge, which results in longer and more powerfull shots. Please check the picture below for reference and keep it in mind !!!
Our Book suggestion: If you have read the previous book of Ben Hogan on swing basics, you can move towards the second fundamental book: “Golf swing Basics” by Olivier Heuler.
4. Lack of acceleration
It is fundamental to accelerate the club through the ball. A lot of amateurs make the mistake of decelerating trough the swing eventually trying to scoop the ball. These errors cause the ball to land short of the target.
Instead, you need to learn how to accelerate through and under the ball.
Tip: the key for gaining distance when swinging is the finish, not the backswing. And you will only get a right finish, if you really accelerate your club at the moment of ball impact.
Our Book suggestion: If you have read the previous two books on swing basics, you can move towards the third fundamental book: “Tour Tempo: Golf’s Last Secret Finally Revelead” by John Novosel, John Garrity
5. Restless legs (in the short game)
Always remember this key lesson, the short-game swing is dominated only by the motion of the upper body. Your legs should act as ………if they were dead! On the contrary, you should get the proper stance and use the “power and control” of your hands (a little) and arms (a lot).
Tip: it is the length of your backswing, not the force of it, that helps you to gain distance to your shots.
Our Book suggestion: Short game is an art. You cannot learn the theory but you have to “feel” it. Hence, the suggestion we have is PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE………….Nevertheless, to ensure you practice in the rigt way, have a look at this book: “Dave Pelz’s Short Game Bible” by Dave Pelz.
Shaft properties such as shaft flex, shaft torque, flex point (kick or bend point), shaft length and weight, influence playability by impacting on trajectory, accuracy, balance, consistency and feel. This is particularly true for graphite shafts as some variables are only of importance in graphite shafts.
1. Definition of Shaft Flex
Shaft flex has a very pronounced effect on the power and accuracy of a driver. The flex of a shaft allows it to store energy from a player’s downswing, and release it as the head makes contact for increased club speed at impact. This “whip” action imparts greater impulse on the ball for maximum distance, which is essential to a good wood shot. This requires a fine balance; a shaft that is too stiff cannot be flexed by the golfer during their downswing, which reduces club speed at impact. A shaft that is too flexible will retain some of its stored flex at contact, wasting energy and changing the angle between club face and ball at impact, causing inconsistent shots. The strength of a golfer’s swing, and therefore the required flex for maximum impact speed, changes over time and can be different from day to day, complicating this equation; the best answer is a shaft that is the best fit for the player’s average swing power, or else a shaft that matches the player’s maximum club speed, so the player retains accuracy on his/her most powerful shots.
Shafts come in a variety of flexes. The most common are: L (Lady), A (Soft Regular, Intermediate or Senior), R (Regular), S (Stiff), and X (Tour Stiff, Extra Stiff or Strong).
A regular flex shaft (R) is generally appropriate for those with an average head speed (80-94 mph), while an A-Flex (or intermediate shaft) is for players with a slower swing speed (70-79 mph).
The stiffer shafts, such as S-Flex and X-Flex (Stiff and Extra-Stiff shafts) are reserved only for those players with an above average swinging speed, usually above 100 mph (160 km/h).
Some companies also offer a “stiff-regular” or “firm” flex for players whose club speed falls in the upper range of a Regular shaft (90-100 mph), allowing golfers and clubmakers to fine-tune the flex for a stronger amateur-level player.
As a general rule one can say that at a giving swing speed a stiffer shaft will produce a lower flight, shorter distance and increased accuracy, while a more flexible shaft will produce a higher shot, but more left/right variance and a little more distance. Players with accuracy problems or whose swing tends to go to the left (for-right-handed golfers) should usually move toward stiffer shafts. Golfers whose swing tends to go to the right (for right-handed golfers) may benefit from a softer flex which will allow them to square the clubface more easily.
However, more than often directional control problems are caused by the grip or golfer’s tempo, not by the shaft type. For the shaft to have any effect on the tempo and flight, the golfer’s hands must work as one unit with a late wrist-cock angle release. The earlier the golfer releases the club on the downswing, the less the shaft’s proprieties will have an impact and height and spin. Golfers with an early release tend to hit the ball the same height with any shaft they use.
Shaft torque is another critical component. Flex and torque are generally related; the more a club can flex, the more it can also twist around its axis (though this is not always the case).
The torque is expressed in degrees. The torque of steel shafts does not vary much and is situated around 3 degrees, while graphite shafts can range from 1 degree to 7 or 8 degrees. A high torque number means that the shaft can torque easily and is less forgiving of off-center shots as it will allow the head to twist, causing pulls and pushes.
Low-torque shafts resist twisting for more forgiving behavior, but tend to be stiffer and require more power for proper distance. The higher toque number clubs will also feel softer, while the low torque numbers will feel firmer.
The difference in shaft torque will usually not be noticeable to the average golfer. The latest generation of driver shafts combine a flexible shaft with a stiff tip, giving the golfer the required flex to “whip” into the ball while reducing clubhead twisting.
4. Kick point or Flex point
The kick-point (flex-point or bend-point) refers to a maximum bending point of the shaft. A high flex point or kick point means the club will bend closer to the grip. A low flex point or kick point refers to a flex point closer to the clubhead. A lower kick-point means that the club-head moves more through impact, while a high kick-point shaft is much easer to control direction. Since more golf clubs are made with low center of gravity club-heads, low kick-point shafts seem to have lost some of their importance.
The shaft flex of your golf clubs is an important component in improving your game and lowering your score. In the article below Jack Moorehouse explains what the different flew types are, why it is important to choose the right flex type and how to choose the one that is best fit for your golf game.
by Jack Moorehouse
All low handicappers and golfers who are serious about shooting the lowest scores possible consider flex in their clubs. It makes the science of hitting the ball so much easier, which translates to more enjoyment on the course.
Now, when I say “flex”, I am referring to the ability of a golf shaft to bend as forces are applied to it during the golf swing. Just go ahead and “waggle” your club a little and see how much the shaft bends and you will get an idea of what “flex” is.
Types of Shaft Flex
There are five basic categories or types of shaft flex:
Why is the flex in your shaft important? Well, when you have a flex that doesn’t match the needs of your swing, the result is the clubface being misaligned at impact, causing your shots to go off-target. Not good. To be more specific, your flex will impact how straight you hit the ball, how high or low it goes and how long or short it travels.
Keep in mind one very important thing about the shaft of your club and its flex. As the shaft flexes throughout the swing, the position of the clubhead will change. This means you need a shaft that will properly match your swing type and speed so that it can deliver the clubface back to a square position at impact.
For example, if the flex of your clubs is too stiff, the clubface will tend to be open, sending the ball in a slicing direction. Or, if you have clubs with a shaft flex that is not very stiff, the clubhead will be tend to be closed at impact, resulting in a hook.
Choose Your Flex Type
I always am experimenting with different shafts and flex types because I know that if my swing is on plane and accurate, my shaft flex type can be adversely affecting my results.
Here’s what I do:
• Your driver will be your best gauge on which flex you need. Not 100% accurate but the best club to use for this purpose.
If you can carry you driver 250 yards or more, go with Stiff;
230-250 yards, Regular;
200-230 yards, Senior;
less than 200 yards, Ladies.
What about Extra Stiff? I can count the number of people on one hand that actually need or use an Extra Stiff shaft. Only guys like John Daily and Long Drive Champions need that type.
• If shots with your driver tend to go left, you might benefit from a stiffer flex; if your drives go right, you might benefit from a softer flex.
• If you know (or have been told) you have a very smooth swing, you might benefit from a softer flex even if you swing very fast. Further, if you have a swing that gets jerky at the top, especially starting the downswing, you’ll probably need a stiffer shaft.
The Best (and most accurate) way to Choose Flex Type
If you are not comfortable determining which flex you should choose on your own, go see your local pro at the course you play at or your driving range. This will take a lot of the guesswork out of the equation.
A good pro will take a lot of measurements, watch your swing, measure your swing speed, watch your ball flight and be able to tell you with certainty which flex is right for you.
What you want to do is to experiment by hitting lots of different clubs and watching the effects on your shots of changing shaft flex.
If you find a flex that feels good and produces a good ball flight, there’s a good chance that’s the right flex for you.
And lastly, here’s the best advice I can give on choosing flex. Most high-handicappers (especially men) tend to over-swing. If this describes you (and you know who you are), you should consider a softer flex to help you slow your swing down. Slowing down the swing will certainly produce more accurate shots and better distance control.
About The Author:
Jack Moorehouse is the author of the best-selling book “How To Break 80…And Shoot Like The Pros!” http://www.howtobreak80.com. He is NOT a golf pro, rather a working man that helped thousands of golfers lower their handicaps without quitting their day jobs.
Climatic conditions and time available do not always allow us to practice outdoors as often as we wish. During the off-season or whenever we lack time to play a complete round of golf there are some simple indoor golf drills we can easily perform at home or in the office. The idea is to focus on the three areas of the game that will have the greatest impact on your score: putting, pitching and swing.
The indoor putting, pitching and swing drills designed by Jack Moorehouse (see article below) do not require any specific equipment or indoor golf gadgets. They can be executed with the help of simple props readily available at home or at your office, such as a phone book, a towel, etc. Of course you’ll need some golf balls and your putter, pitching wedge and an 8 iron (ideally also your 7 and 9 irons).
For the pitching drills you may want to use limited flight golf balls or practice golf balls with holes depending on the space available to practice. They are designed to simulate the flight of a conventional golf ball, but may be safer to play indoors.
Simple Indoor Drills To Keep Your Game
In Shape During the Winter
by Jack Moorehouse
Master the three scoring clubs-the driver, the wedge, and the putter-and you’ll improve your game dramatically. With 14 clubs to hit, golfers often have trouble deciding which part of their game to work on. If you’re serious about working on your game, focus on the three scoring clubs. They have the greatest impact on your score.
Unfortunately, not all of us live in a climate where we can always practice outdoors. Even if we do, we don’t always have the time to go to a driving range and hit balls. That doesn’t mean we can’t work on the fundamentals needed to master the three clubs. We just need to do it indoors.
Below are several indoor drills that will help you master these three clubs. They can are done in almost any location, even your office.
Putter
There are three “musts” in becoming a good putter: (1) your stroke must follow target line; (2) your putter must remain square to the target line; (3) and your forward stroke must equal (or slightly exceed) your backstroke. The following drill emphasizes these putting musts. The next drill focuses on distance control, also a key aspect of putting.
1. Drop two phone books on the floor. Position them far enough apart so that your putterhead barely squeezes through them. Place a golf ball between the books, assume your putting posture, and make your stroke.
Use the books as a visual guide to match the lengths of your backstroke and forwardstroke. Matching the lengths ensures a smooth stroke with perfect tempo. You’ll find it difficult to guide your putter between the phone books unless your stroke follows the intended putting line. If your putter strikes the side of either book, your stroke strayed off-line.
Also, mark your ball with a straight line. Set that line parallel to your target line. Marking the ball makes it easier to align the putter perpendicular to the target line at address. See if the line falls to the right or left of center as your ball rolls after impact. If it does, then your stroke may have deviated off-line or made contact with a slightly open or closed putter face.
2. This drill improves distance control. Set or balance a ball (or a tee turned upside down) on a penny and putt a second ball to this ball so that it touches the first, but DOESN’T knock it off the penny! This one is SUPER TOUGH! Try various distances.
You should soon forget about the line and “making” the putt-distance control is everything. Rolling the ball to the target with an acceptable “sink” speed becomes second nature as you try to just touch the target ball.
Pitching Wedge
These drills can be done just about anywhere. It improves one of the most important parts of your game-wedge play.
Find about 10 feet of open floor space. Put a small towel on the floor and stand about 10 feet away. Use a short, smooth stroke, keeping your hands ahead of the clubface. Try chipping 50 balls onto the towel. Practice so the balls land on the towel, not come to rest on the towel. Start with an 8 iron, then move to a 9 iron, and then to a wedge.
The more you practice the better control you’ll have over those short chips. Next time you’re on the practice range, try the same drill. Watch how far each club makes the ball roll on the putting surface. Now you’ll have more control over your chips under different conditions. After awhile, you should be able to nestle every shot close to the pin, or sink it!
Driver
Many golfers turn their hips and shoulders simultaneously when swing a club. Too much lower body rotation eliminates torque between the upper and lower body. Adding more backswing torque to your swing generates distance.
1. Sit down in a chair. Spread your feet out wide and keep them flat on the ground. Hold a 7 or 8 iron out in front of you. Hold the clubhead with one hand and the end of the grip in the other hand. Raise the club over your head and rest the shaft across your neck and shoulders. Turn your shoulders to the right. Hold this position for a few seconds. You should feel a lot of torque along your left side. The turn your shoulders back and face forward. Relax and repeat.
Many golfers use their hands and arms only when swinging the driver. They don’t rotate their shoulders, sapping power from their swing. This drill helps keep your hands, arms, and shoulders in sync as you swing back and through.
2. Lower yourself down to the floor onto your knees. Hold a ball between your hands and out in front of your. Start by making some small moves swinging the ball back and forth. The idea is to keep the ball in front of your chest as your arms swing and your shoulders rotate. Increase the length of your swing going back and through. As you reach the end of your backswing and forward swing, allow your arms to fold. Swing back and fold your arms. Swing down and unfold them. Swing through and fold them again.
These drills improve control of the three most important clubs in your bag-the driver, the putter, and the wedge. You can do them in your house or your garage. Each focuses on fundamentals you must master to take your game to the next level.
About the author:
Jack Moorehouse is the author of the best-selling book “How To Break 80…And Shoot Like The Pros!” http://www.howtobreak80.com. He is NOT a golf pro, rather a working man that helped thousands of golfers lower their handicaps without quitting their day jobs.
